First things first, let’s talk about the case. A real Royal Oak? It’s like poetry in metal. Think smooth, flowing edges and perfect beveling. If you see anything janky, like rough spots or uneven lines, that’s a HUGE red flag. Imagine running your fingers over it – should feel *expensive*. A fake? Not so much. It’s like the difference between a Bentley and a beat-up Honda Civic, y’know?
Then you gotta get up close and personal with the dial. This is where the fakers often trip up, big time. The Royal Oak has this signature “Tapisserie” pattern – tiny little squares. It’s super intricate, and apparently, *really* hard to copy perfectly. So, grab a magnifying glass (yeah, you might look a bit nerdy, but it’s your money!), and really examine it. Are the squares crisp and even? Or are they kinda… mushy and poorly defined? That’s a major giveaway. Plus, look at the other markings – are they clean and precise or sloppy? Basically, does the dial look like it was made by master craftsmen or a dude in a shed?
And don’t forget the *feel* of the winding mechanism! A real AP is going to be smooth and precise. A fake? Could be grindy, stiff, or just plain weird. Think about how a luxury car drives compared to a budget one – it’s that kind of difference.
Honestly, if you’re even remotely suspicious, take it to an expert. Seriously. It’s worth the peace of mind. These things are expensive AF, and a professional can spot the little details that might slip past you. Plus, they can check the movement, which is basically impossible for us regular folks to do accurately.
Oh, and one more thing: the price. If it seems too good to be true, it probably is. These watches ain’t cheap. If someone’s offering you a “steal” on a Royal Oak, walk away. Run, even. Unless you wanna learn a painful lesson about trusting strangers on the internet.
